Tomme Vaudoise is a soft, gooey cheese from the French-speaking side of Switzerland, and the version on our counter right now is pasteurized, a little funky and best eaten warm or with something sweet. We only get it a few times a year, so here's everything you need to make the most of it while it's here.

What does Tomme Vaudoise taste like?

Think rich, buttery and runny at room temperature. This season's batch is a little stronger than the spring one, with a pronounced animal funk and a hint of proofing dough on the finish. If you like a cheese that has opinions, this is your cheese.

How do you eat Tomme Vaudoise?

Three ways we keep coming back to:

• Melted over potatoes. Roast or boil a few small potatoes, lay slices of Tomme over the top while they're hot, and let it slump. That's dinner.
• Baked into a savoury tart. Puff pastry, a layer of caramelized onions, Tomme on top, into the oven until it bubbles.
• After dinner, the classic way: at room temperature with honey, dried fruit and pecans.

What wine goes with Tomme Vaudoise?

We pour Limousine NV alongside it, and put out Rosewood Estates Honeycomb for the sweet side. Funky cheese, a good glass, a drip of honey: natural bedfellows. Or browse the whole wine wall.

How long is Tomme Vaudoise in season?

Not long. It arrives a few times a year and goes when it goes, so if you've been curious, now's the time. Grab a piece of Tomme Vaudoise here.

Good Cheese is a cheese, natural wine and good stuff shop at 614 Gerrard St E in East Chinatown, Toronto, open 11 to 7, seven days a week. Come ask for a taste at the counter, or order before 10AM for same-day local delivery, Monday to Friday, free on orders over $150.