Rosso di Montalcino '23

J.G. Benda's Rosso di Montalcino '23 is the younger sibling of Brunello — same Sangiovese Grosso grape, same storied hillside terroir around Montalcino, but vinified for earlier drinking and priced for the table rather than the cellar. Elegant and medium-bodied, it offers dried cherry, rose petal, tobacco leaf, and a fine, persistent acidity that is the hallmark of great Tuscan Sangiovese.

At $135 this is serious wine that rewards attention: decant for an hour, pour into a large Burgundy glass, and pair with bistecca, aged Pecorino, wild boar ragu, or a truffle risotto. It has the structure to age another 3–5 years, but drinks beautifully now.