In Toronto, good tinned fish lives in specialty shops rather than the canned aisle. Good Cheese at 614 Gerrard St E in East Chinatown stocks close to 200 conservas alongside cheese, natural wine and pantry goods, with same-day local delivery on orders placed before 10am and shipping across Canada. You will also find strong tinned fish selections in Little Portugal, Kensington Market, and at Portuguese and Spanish grocers around the city.

What makes a specialty tin different from a supermarket one?

Three things, mostly.

• The fish. Better tins tend to be hand-packed and packed whole rather than broken up. You can see it the second you open the lid.
• The oil. Cheap tins use whatever oil is cheapest. Good ones use olive oil you will actually want to mop up with bread, which means you are not buying one thing, you are buying two.
• Time. Some conservas are aged in the tin, and the fish gets softer and rounder the longer it sits. Yes, people cellar sardines. Yes, we find that delightful.

What should I look for on the label?

• Where it was packed. Portugal, Spain and Galicia are the heartland. France and Italy do extraordinary things too, and there is excellent Canadian conservas now as well.
• What it is packed in. Olive oil, brine, escabeche, tomato, spiced butter. This changes the dish more than the fish does.
• The size count. Fewer, bigger pieces in the tin usually means a more premium pack.
• A vintage. Some tins carry a packing year, which is your cue that it will improve with time.

What is new on the wall right now?

A fresh run of Portuguese tins just landed: Minerva, Tenorio, Bom Petisco, La Rose and Acor, most of them under $16. This is the easy, everyday end of the tinned fish price ladder. Tuesday night food, snack drawer food, not special occasion food. Which is exactly why it is where we tell beginners to start.

What should a beginner start with?

Start with something forgiving. A few we would hand you across the counter this week:

• Minerva Sardines in Olive Oil, the classic entry point. Grab the lemon version too and taste them side by side.
• Minerva Mackerel Fillets in Olive Oil, richer and very good on toast.
• Tenorio Tuna Fillets in Olive Oil, if you want something that eats like lunch.
• Bom Petisco Sardines in Hot Tomato Sauce, for the sauce as much as the fish.

Save the squid in ink and the razor clams for round two, once you know you like this. Or do not. The best, most rewarding food experiences are usually the weird surprises.

We will never make you feel silly for asking. So much of the food world runs on gatekeeping, and we are not interested in that.

Can I get it delivered?

Yes. Order from our tinned fish and seafood collection before 10am for same-day local delivery in Toronto, and we ship across Canada. Or come stand in front of the shelf and read every single tin, which is honestly the better experience.

Or skip the choosing entirely

Conservas Club is our monthly tinned fish subscription: $55 a month, at least three premium tins chosen by us, tasting notes and pairing suggestions included, shipped straight to your door. Pause or cancel anytime, and it makes a very good gift for the person who has everything except dinner.